Peqaboo-serie
Ball pythons are calm, hardy snakes and a popular first pet. This hub explains the heat gradient and secure hides they need, humidity for clean sheds, a simple frozen-thawed feeding routine, gentle handling, and the health signs that warrant a reptile vet.
Bearded dragons are a top beginner lizard, but only if you give them a large enclosure, strong heat, real UVB and an age-appropriate insect-and-greens diet. This hub covers whether a beardie suits you, how to set up the tank, and the daily feeding and care routine.
Corn snakes are hardy, good-natured, and reliable feeders, making them one of the best first snakes. This hub covers the escape-proof enclosure and heat gradient they need, a simple feeding schedule, calm handling, and the health signs that mean it is time to see a reptile vet.
Crested geckos are one of the easiest reptiles for first-time keepers. This hub covers the tall terrarium they need, comfortable room-temperature husbandry, an easy powdered diet, safe handling, and the health signs that mean it is time to call an exotics vet.
Leopard geckos are one of the easiest, hardiest reptiles for beginners: small, docile and long-lived. This hub covers whether one suits you, how to set up the enclosure with warm, cool and humid hides, getting belly heat and humidity right, and a calcium-dusted insect diet.
Blue-tongue skinks are hardy, ground-dwelling omnivores that make calm, long-lived pets. This guide covers the wide floor space they need, the basking heat and UVB gradient to set up, and a balanced plant-heavy diet, so you can build a healthy, low-stress enclosure from day one.
Blue-tongue skinks are omnivores that need a shifting balance of vegetables, protein and calcium. This guide gives clear protein-to-veg ratios by age, lists safe staples and foods to avoid, and shows how to portion meals so your skink stays lean, active and free of obesity.
Chameleons rarely drink from bowls, so hydration depends on misting and drippers that leave droplets on leaves. This guide covers how to mist, set up a dripper, read hydration from the eyes and urates, and the humidity balance that keeps a chameleon drinking without causing respiratory illness.
Gargoyle geckos are hardy, room-temperature arboreal lizards that thrive without special heat lamps. This guide covers enclosure size, temperature, humidity, a powdered complete diet, handling and the common care mistakes new keepers make, so you can set up a healthy home from day one.
Hermann's tortoises are gentle Mediterranean tortoises that can live for decades with the right care. This guide covers their spacious housing, basking heat and UVB, a high-fibre weed-based diet, and what their long lifespan really means, so you can set up a healthy home and plan for a lasting commitment.
A warm soak helps reptiles hydrate, pass stuck shed, and stay comfortable. This step-by-step guide covers safe water depth and temperature, how long to soak, species differences, and the red flags that mean a stuck shed or hydration problem needs a vet rather than another bath.
Panther chameleons are famous for dazzling colour but need a warm, humid, tropical setup to thrive. This guide covers their tall planted enclosure, heat and UVB, misting and humidity, and a gut-loaded insect diet, plus the honest truth that colour reflects health and mood, not decoration.
Quarantining a new reptile protects your existing animals from hidden parasites and disease. This guide explains why quarantine matters, how long it should last, how to set up a simple isolation enclosure, and the hygiene routine that keeps infections from spreading in your home.
Heat mats warm many reptile enclosures, but an unregulated mat can cause serious belly burns or dangerous overheating. This guide shows how to wire a thermostat, set safe surface temperatures, spot early burn signs, and act fast if your reptile is injured or the heating fails.
Humidity is as important as temperature for reptile health, and every species has its own range. This reference explains typical humidity targets for common desert, temperate and tropical reptiles, how to measure it accurately, and how to fix air that is too dry or too damp.
Humidity is one of the most misunderstood parts of reptile care, and getting it wrong causes shedding problems, dehydration or respiratory infection. This step-by-step guide shows you how to measure humidity accurately and raise or lower it reliably to match your species' needs.
Russian tortoises stay small but need a large enclosure, strong heat and UVB, and a high-fibre weed-based diet. This guide covers their space and digging needs, the right temperatures and lighting, and the leafy diet that keeps these long-lived little tortoises healthy for decades.
Sulcata tortoises are gentle and long-lived, but they grow into 30-plus kilogram giants that need serious outdoor space, heat and a grass-based diet. This guide walks you through housing, temperatures, feeding and the decades-long commitment before you buy a palm-sized hatchling.
Regular warm soaks help tortoises drink, pass waste, and stay hydrated, protecting kidneys and preventing shell problems. This guide covers correct water depth and temperature, how often to soak by age, and the warning signs of dehydration that mean a reptile vet visit.
Veiled chameleons are striking but demanding lizards that need a tall planted enclosure, precise heat and UVB, and careful hydration. This beginner's guide walks through the full setup, feeding, and watering routine so first-time keepers can avoid the common mistakes that make these reptiles hard to keep.
Choosing a healthy reptile at the start saves heartache and vet bills later. This head-to-tail checklist covers eyes, nose, mouth, skin, body condition, behaviour and the enclosure it came from plus the red flags that should make you walk away.
Learn how to set up a perfect temperature gradient for your reptile. Discover why hot and cool zones are vital for thermoregulation, how to measure temperatures accurately, and how to avoid common heating mistakes.
The best first reptile is the one whose needs match your space, budget and patience, not the cutest in the shop. This comparison weighs popular beginner species, leopard geckos, bearded dragons, corn snakes and others, on care difficulty, handling, cost and lifespan, so you choose with clear eyes.
A thermostat is the single most important safety device in a reptile enclosure, preventing both dangerous overheating and cold nights. This comparison explains on/off, pulse and dimming thermostats, which heaters each suits, and how to choose the right one for your setup.
Tortoises and turtles are often confused but need completely different setups. Tortoises are land grazers that need a large dry enclosure and UVB; aquatic turtles need a heavily filtered water tank with a basking platform. This guide compares housing, diet, and lifespan so you choose the right pet.
Svansförlust hos ödlor är antingen autotomi, en inbyggd flyktmekanism med en förutbestämd brottyta, eller en skada, och dessa kräver olika åtgärder. Denna guide skiljer dem åt, ger en tabell över vilka arter som kan återväxa svansen och vilka som aldrig gör det, förklarar varför pappersunderlag och rätt temperaturer är
De första tre dagarna med en ny reptil handlar om att nästan inte göra någonting: ingen hantering, ingen mat, ingen ommöblering. Den här guiden täcker hur du förbereder terrariet innan hämtning, rutiner vid ankomst, vad normalt tillvänjningsbeteende innebär och varför karantän separerad från dina andra reptiler inte är
Ett omplacerat kräldjur anländer med de problem som den tidigare inredningen orsakat under månader. Den här guiden går igenom kontrollen i den ordning som är viktigast, från uppmätt temperatur till ljus, hydrering, djuret självt och sist parasiter, och ger veckovisa milstolpar så att anpassningen kan mätas istället för
Ormar har ingen tonårstid, men tillväxt medför verkliga och förutsägbara förändringar: långsammare matning, färre ömsningar, mjukare försvarsbeteende och säsongsbetonade aptitsvängningar vid könsmognad. Lär dig stadiemallen och tecknen som inte är utvecklingsrelaterade.
Ett nyinflyttat husdjur i form av en orm behöver en period för att komma till ro, men det är en fråga om skötsel, inte ett avvänjningsprogram i hundstil. Stabilisera terrariet, undvik att hantera ormen, erbjud den första måltiden på natten och lämna rummet, och följ ormens vikt istället för att gå efter utseendet.
De verkliga riskerna med att ha en orm i ett hushåll med flera generationer är salmonella och rymning, inte bett. Denna artikel förklarar varför barn under fem år och immunnedsatta vuxna utgör en risk, vilka handtvätt- och köksregler som faktiskt fungerar, hur man säkrar ett terrarium mot både barn och orm, samt vilka
En ödla-unge växer snabbare, drabbas lättare av uttorkning och ömsar skinn betydligt oftare än vad den någonsin kommer göra som vuxen. Hos skäggagamer ändras dessutom dieten drastiskt under uppväxten. Denna guide täcker tillväxtjournaler som tidigt upptäcker problem, bytesstorlek och utfodringsfrekvens, behovet av kalc
Ett rum optimerat för en människa skapar konflikter för en reptil på två sätt: din belysning gör att djurets natt aldrig infaller, och din värme, luftkonditionering och fönster destabiliserar den svala delen av dess temperaturgradient. Guiden täcker säsongsbaserad temperaturkontroll, att korrigera fotoperioden utan att
Ett arbetsrum är det rum där temperatur, ljus, luft och buller förändras mest under en dag, och en reptil kan inte lämna det. Denna guide täcker varför rumsvärme förstör den svala änden snarare än solplatsen, varför sol genom glas ger värme utan UVB, farorna med luft och vibrationer på ett kontor, och hur man hanterar
