A new puppy will chew, swallow and squeeze into everything within reach. This room-by-room checklist helps you remove hazards, secure toxins and set up safe spaces before your puppy arrives, so the first outing around your home stays calm and injury-free.
Get down to puppy height and work through your home one room at a time before the puppy arrives. Remove or secure anything that can be chewed, swallowed or pulled down, lock away all toxins, and set up one puppy-safe zone with a crate or pen. Doing this in advance prevents the most common first-week emergencies.
A new puppy will chew, swallow and squeeze into everything within reach.
Start here, as it is where the puppy spends most supervised time. Bundle and cover all electrical cables, and unplug what you can. Move remote controls, chargers, hair ties and coins off low tables. Secure bookshelves and any furniture that could topple. Remove or relocate toxic houseplants such as lilies, sago palm and dieffenbachia. Check under sofas for lost objects before the puppy finds them first.
Loose cables are a top chewing and shock hazard; bundle or hide every one.
The kitchen holds the most toxins in one place. Fit child latches on low cupboards, and store all cleaning products, dishwasher tablets and medicines up high. Keep a lidded, dog-proof bin, since bones, wrappers and mouldy food are serious hazards. Never leave chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions, garlic or anything containing xylitol within reach on counters or tables.
Store all cleaners, medicines and foods behind latched doors or up high.
Keep the toilet lid down and store all medicines, supplements, razors and toiletries in closed cabinets. Cleaning chemicals, bleach and toilet blocks must be well out of reach. In the laundry area, keep the machine door closed, and store detergent pods high, as they are a common poisoning cause. Sweep for hair ties, cotton buds and small caps.
Shoes, socks, hair accessories, jewellery and charging cables are all tempting and dangerous. Store them behind closed doors or in drawers. Keep handbags, which often hold gum, medication or coins, off the floor. Tuck away blind and curtain cords, which pose a strangulation risk. Decide now whether bedrooms are off-limits and use a baby gate to enforce it.
In a high-rise flat, balconies and windows are a serious fall risk. Never leave a puppy unsupervised on a balcony, and check that railing gaps are too narrow to squeeze through; add mesh if needed. Secure window restrictors. On any outdoor space, remove toxic plants, fertilisers and slug pellets, and check fences and gates for gaps a small puppy could slip through.
Create one puppy-proof area with a crate or playpen, water, safe chew toys and bedding. This is where your puppy rests when you cannot supervise, which prevents accidents and supports toilet training. Introduce this space gently and positively so it becomes a comfort, not a punishment.
How low do I need to go when checking for hazards?
All the way to the floor. Puppies reach under furniture, behind appliances and into low gaps, so inspect from their eye level, not yours.
Are baby gates really necessary?
They are one of the most useful tools. Gates keep puppies out of unsafe rooms and away from stairs while you supervise the rest of the home.
What are the most dangerous foods to keep away?
Chocolate, grapes and raisins, onions, garlic, macadamia nuts, alcohol and anything with the sweetener xylitol. Store all of these completely out of reach.
When should I puppy-proof?
Before the puppy arrives. Doing it in advance means the first outing around your home is calm and safe rather than a frantic chase to remove hazards.
This article is for general education and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your pet is unwell, please consult a veterinarian.
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