Bringing home a rabbit is exciting, but they need very different care from cats and dogs. This first-year guide covers housing, a hay-first diet, litter training, handling, health checks and neutering, so you build good habits early and raise a calm, healthy companion.
In your rabbit's first year, get four things right: unlimited grass hay, a roomy indoor pen, gentle daily handling, and an early check-up with a rabbit-savvy vet including a neutering plan. Rabbits are social, intelligent and long-lived (often 8–12 years), so the routines you build now shape a decade of health and trust.
Bringing home a rabbit is exciting, but they need very different care from cats and dogs.
Unlimited hay, fresh water, a litter tray and a hide are the four foundations of a happy first-year rabbit.
Skip the tiny cages sold in pet shops. Rabbits need space to hop, stretch up and do a happy "binky" jump. A large exercise pen or a rabbit-proofed room works far better than a hutch, especially in a small high-rise flat where floor space is precious. Provide a litter tray, a hide to feel safe, a heavy water bowl, and a non-slip floor to protect their delicate legs. Keep the pen out of direct sun and away from draughts.
Diet is the single biggest factor in rabbit health. Grass hay (timothy, orchard, meadow) should be available at all times and make up around 80% of what your rabbit eats — it wears down constantly growing teeth and keeps the gut moving.
Hay should make up around 80% of the diet, with greens daily and only a small measure of pellets.
Add a daily handful of washed leafy greens such as romaine, coriander and bok choy, and only a small measured portion of plain pellets. Skip the colourful seed-and-corn mixes and sugary treats. Introduce any new green slowly, and always provide fresh water.
Rabbits naturally choose one toilet corner, which makes litter training straightforward: put a tray with paper-based litter and a handful of hay where they already go. Most rabbits catch on within weeks, especially once neutered.
Handle gently and often, but stay low. Rabbits feel safe with four feet on the ground, so sit on the floor and let them come to you rather than picking them up. Never lift a rabbit by the ears or scruff, and always support the back legs — a frightened rabbit can kick hard enough to injure its own spine.
Book a first check-up with a rabbit-experienced vet early, as not every clinic sees rabbits. Ask about neutering — it prevents unwanted litters, reduces the high risk of uterine cancer in females, and calms hormonal spraying and aggression. Discuss which vaccines are recommended in your area, since diseases like RHDV and myxomatosis and the vaccines available for them vary by region. Learn your rabbit's normal appetite, droppings and behaviour so you can spot changes fast.
Do rabbits really need a friend?
Many do far better bonded with another neutered rabbit, as they are highly social. If kept alone, they need lots of daily human interaction and enrichment.
How much space does one rabbit need?
More than a cage — aim for a pen plus several hours of supervised free-roam time daily in a rabbit-proofed area.
When should I neuter my rabbit?
Usually around 4–6 months, but ask your vet for the right timing. Neutering has real health and behaviour benefits, especially for females.
Can rabbits eat carrots and fruit?
Only as rare tiny treats. They are high in sugar; hay and leafy greens should be the everyday diet.
This article is for general education and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your pet is unwell, please consult a veterinarian.
Peqaboo’s AI helps you track symptoms, understand lab reports, and know when to see a vet.
Get the Peqaboo app
