Feeding Chinchillas: Hay, Pellets, and Strictly Limited Treats
A chinchilla's whole digestive system runs on grass. Get the diet right, unlimited hay, a little plain pellet, water and only tiny treats, and you prevent most dental and gut disease. This guide explains the correct proportions and the everyday foods that quietly harm chinchillas.

Quick answer
Feeding Chinchillas: Hay, Pellets, and Strictly Limited Treats
Feed a chinchilla unlimited good-quality grass hay as the base of every day, a small measured amount of plain chinchilla pellets, and constant fresh water. Treats should be tiny, dry and rare. Chinchillas have sensitive, fibre-dependent guts and continuously growing teeth, so a high-fibre, low-sugar, low-fat diet is not optional, it is what keeps them alive and well.
- Species
- chinchilla
- Category
- nutrition
- Risk level
- medium
- Content focus
- practical owner decisions + mechanism
- When to escalate
- same-day if pain, not eating, breathing issues, or rapid decline
Decide in 60 seconds
| Situation | Do now |
|---|---|
| Mild / stable at home | Follow steps in this guide and monitor for 12–24 hours |
| Not eating, hiding, or clear pain | Same-day vet (species-savvy if exotic) |
| Breathing hard, collapse, continuous distress | Emergency vet now |
| You are unsure after reading | Call a clinic with your notes rather than waiting days |
Hay is the foundation, not a side dish
Grass hay should make up the vast majority of what your chinchilla eats and must be available at all times. The long fibre keeps the gut moving and, just as importantly, the hours of chewing wear down continuously growing teeth. Timothy, orchard grass and meadow hay are all good choices. Avoid feeding alfalfa (lucerne) as the main hay to adults, it is too high in calcium and protein and can contribute to bladder stones; keep it for the occasional treat or for growing youngsters if your vet advises.

Hay should be unlimited; pellets are a small measured supplement, not the main meal.

Pellets: a small, plain supplement
Pellets top up nutrients that hay alone may lack, but they are a supplement, not the main meal. Choose a plain, uniform chinchilla-specific pellet with no added seeds, dried fruit, nuts or colourful bits, those mixes let chinchillas pick out the sugary pieces and leave the fibre. A typical adult needs only about one to two tablespoons a day; your vet or the reputable brand's guidance can fine-tune this. Measure it rather than free-pouring, and if your chinchilla leaves hay in favour of pellets, you are probably feeding too many.
Water and fresh foods
Provide clean fresh water at all times, most owners use a sipper bottle, which stays cleaner than an open bowl, but check daily that it is working and refill it. Chinchillas do not need fresh vegetables or fruit the way some small mammals do, and their guts handle moisture-rich foods poorly. If you offer any fresh or leafy item at all, keep it to a tiny occasional amount and introduce it cautiously; when in doubt, skip it. Never give a chinchilla a bowl of watery vegetables or fruit as a meal.

Treats: tiny, dry, and rare
Treats are where most well-meaning owners go wrong. A chinchilla's gut and teeth are simply not built for sugar, fat or moisture-rich foods.

Safe treats are tiny and rare, a single dried rosehip, not sugary shop treats.
Safe occasional treats are small and dry, for example a single plain dried rosehip, a couple of pieces of plain dried herb, or a small strand of a safe dried leaf. Offer no more than a pea-sized amount a few times a week at most. Avoid entirely: dried fruit, raisins, banana chips, yoghurt drops, nuts, seeds, breakfast cereals, bread and anything sugary or fatty. These commonly cause bloating, diarrhoea and appetite loss, which in a chinchilla can become life-threatening quickly.
Everyday storage in a humid climate
In Hong Kong's humidity, hay quality is a real issue. Damp hay goes musty and mouldy fast, and mouldy hay can make a chinchilla seriously ill or be refused altogether, leaving the teeth unworn. Store hay in a dry, airy container rather than a sealed plastic bag that traps moisture, buy smaller amounts more often, and throw out any hay that smells musty or looks discoloured. Keep pellets in a sealed, dry container away from heat, and note the best-before date, stale pellets lose vitamin content.
Living context by region
This guide is written for multi-region English readers (US/UK/AU/NZ/CA/EU and more). Where climate, products, or vet access differ, prefer local veterinary advice and local product labels. Use metric first; keep °F/lb in mind for North American homes.
When to call your vet
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Signs are getting worse over hours, not better
-
Pain, persistent vomiting/diarrhea, or neurological signs
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You needed force or guesswork to keep going at home
Common mistakes
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Waiting because the animal 'still looks okay' while prey species hide pain
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Changing five variables at once so you cannot tell what helped
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Copying drug doses from social media
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Skipping species-appropriate husbandry while buying more gadgets
FAQ
How much pellet should an adult chinchilla get daily?
Can chinchillas eat fruit and vegetables?
Is alfalfa hay ok?
Why does my chinchilla ignore hay and only eat pellets?
My highlights & notes
This article is for general education and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your pet is unwell, please consult a veterinarian.
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