The days before your cat arrives set the tone for everything that follows. This guide covers the essential supplies, how to cat-proof a small home, choosing a vet, and setting up one calm starter room so your new cat feels safe from the very first hour.
Before your cat arrives, gather the core supplies, cat-proof your home, and set up one quiet starter room with a litter tray, food, water, a bed and a hiding spot. Book a first vet check and confirm what food your cat is already eating so you can keep it consistent. A little preparation prevents most first-week stress.
The days before your cat arrives set the tone for everything that follows.
You do not need everything a pet shop sells, but a few basics make the first days smoother.
Buy the same litter and food your cat is currently used to. Changing both at once, on top of a new home, often triggers litter-box avoidance or an upset stomach. You can transition gradually later.
Cats explore with their mouths and paws, and a small flat has plenty of hidden hazards. Walk each room at cat height and look for trouble.
Secure loose cables and remove toxic plants before your cat explores.
Secure or hide electrical cables, tuck away hair ties, rubber bands and string, and move breakables off low surfaces. Check that windows and balconies are screened — in Hong Kong and Taiwan high-rise flats, unscreened windows are a genuine fall risk, and "high-rise syndrome" injuries are common in warm months when windows stay open. Remove or relocate toxic houseplants such as lilies (dangerous even in tiny amounts), pothos and dieffenbachia.
Resist the urge to give a new cat the run of the whole home. One quiet room lets them build confidence in a small, manageable space.
One quiet starter room lets a new cat settle before meeting the whole home.
Place the litter tray in one corner and food and water well away from it, since cats dislike eating next to their toilet. Add a bed and a covered hiding spot — a cardboard box on its side works perfectly. Keep the carrier in the room with the door open so it becomes a familiar, safe object rather than something that only means vet trips.
Find a local vet before you need one, and book a health check within the first week or two. Ask whether the cat is already microchipped and vaccinated, and gather any records from the shelter or breeder. In Hong Kong, cats are commonly microchipped through vet clinics; in Taiwan, pet registration and rabies vaccination are legally required for the relevant species, so confirm what applies. Budget for the first consultation, any vaccines, and eventually neutering.
Agree house rules with everyone you live with: which surfaces are off-limits, who feeds, and keeping the starter-room door shut at first. If you have other pets, plan a slow, scent-first introduction rather than a face-to-face meeting on day one. Calm, quiet arrivals work far better than an excited welcome party.
How long should my cat stay in the starter room?
Usually a few days to a week, until they are relaxed, eating well and using the litter tray. Then open up the home gradually, one area at a time.
Do I really need a carrier before arrival?
Yes. You need it to bring the cat home safely and for any vet visit. A sturdy, top-opening carrier is worth buying first.
Should I change the food straight away?
No. Keep the current food at first and transition over 7-10 days later by mixing increasing amounts of the new food.
My flat is tiny — is that a problem?
Not at all. Cats adapt well to small homes when you add vertical space, a scratching post and enrichment. Space up, not just out.
This article is for general education and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your pet is unwell, please consult a veterinarian.
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