Peqaboo-serie
Ball pythons are calm, hardy snakes and a popular first pet. This hub explains the heat gradient and secure hides they need, humidity for clean sheds, a simple frozen-thawed feeding routine, gentle handling, and the health signs that warrant a reptile vet.
Bearded dragons are a top beginner lizard, but only if you give them a large enclosure, strong heat, real UVB and an age-appropriate insect-and-greens diet. This hub covers whether a beardie suits you, how to set up the tank, and the daily feeding and care routine.
Corn snakes are hardy, good-natured, and reliable feeders, making them one of the best first snakes. This hub covers the escape-proof enclosure and heat gradient they need, a simple feeding schedule, calm handling, and the health signs that mean it is time to see a reptile vet.
Crested geckos are one of the easiest reptiles for first-time keepers. This hub covers the tall terrarium they need, comfortable room-temperature husbandry, an easy powdered diet, safe handling, and the health signs that mean it is time to call an exotics vet.
Leopard geckos are one of the easiest, hardiest reptiles for beginners: small, docile and long-lived. This hub covers whether one suits you, how to set up the enclosure with warm, cool and humid hides, getting belly heat and humidity right, and a calcium-dusted insect diet.
Blue-tongue skinks are hardy, ground-dwelling omnivores that make calm, long-lived pets. This guide covers the wide floor space they need, the basking heat and UVB gradient to set up, and a balanced plant-heavy diet, so you can build a healthy, low-stress enclosure from day one.
Blue-tongue skinks are omnivores that need a shifting balance of vegetables, protein and calcium. This guide gives clear protein-to-veg ratios by age, lists safe staples and foods to avoid, and shows how to portion meals so your skink stays lean, active and free of obesity.
Chameleons rarely drink from bowls, so hydration depends on misting and drippers that leave droplets on leaves. This guide covers how to mist, set up a dripper, read hydration from the eyes and urates, and the humidity balance that keeps a chameleon drinking without causing respiratory illness.
Gargoyle geckos are hardy, room-temperature arboreal lizards that thrive without special heat lamps. This guide covers enclosure size, temperature, humidity, a powdered complete diet, handling and the common care mistakes new keepers make, so you can set up a healthy home from day one.
Hermann's tortoises are gentle Mediterranean tortoises that can live for decades with the right care. This guide covers their spacious housing, basking heat and UVB, a high-fibre weed-based diet, and what their long lifespan really means, so you can set up a healthy home and plan for a lasting commitment.
A warm soak helps reptiles hydrate, pass stuck shed, and stay comfortable. This step-by-step guide covers safe water depth and temperature, how long to soak, species differences, and the red flags that mean a stuck shed or hydration problem needs a vet rather than another bath.
Panther chameleons are famous for dazzling colour but need a warm, humid, tropical setup to thrive. This guide covers their tall planted enclosure, heat and UVB, misting and humidity, and a gut-loaded insect diet, plus the honest truth that colour reflects health and mood, not decoration.
Quarantining a new reptile protects your existing animals from hidden parasites and disease. This guide explains why quarantine matters, how long it should last, how to set up a simple isolation enclosure, and the hygiene routine that keeps infections from spreading in your home.
Heat mats warm many reptile enclosures, but an unregulated mat can cause serious belly burns or dangerous overheating. This guide shows how to wire a thermostat, set safe surface temperatures, spot early burn signs, and act fast if your reptile is injured or the heating fails.
Humidity is as important as temperature for reptile health, and every species has its own range. This reference explains typical humidity targets for common desert, temperate and tropical reptiles, how to measure it accurately, and how to fix air that is too dry or too damp.
Humidity is one of the most misunderstood parts of reptile care, and getting it wrong causes shedding problems, dehydration or respiratory infection. This step-by-step guide shows you how to measure humidity accurately and raise or lower it reliably to match your species' needs.
Russian tortoises stay small but need a large enclosure, strong heat and UVB, and a high-fibre weed-based diet. This guide covers their space and digging needs, the right temperatures and lighting, and the leafy diet that keeps these long-lived little tortoises healthy for decades.
Sulcata tortoises are gentle and long-lived, but they grow into 30-plus kilogram giants that need serious outdoor space, heat and a grass-based diet. This guide walks you through housing, temperatures, feeding and the decades-long commitment before you buy a palm-sized hatchling.
Regular warm soaks help tortoises drink, pass waste, and stay hydrated, protecting kidneys and preventing shell problems. This guide covers correct water depth and temperature, how often to soak by age, and the warning signs of dehydration that mean a reptile vet visit.
Veiled chameleons are striking but demanding lizards that need a tall planted enclosure, precise heat and UVB, and careful hydration. This beginner's guide walks through the full setup, feeding, and watering routine so first-time keepers can avoid the common mistakes that make these reptiles hard to keep.
Choosing a healthy reptile at the start saves heartache and vet bills later. This head-to-tail checklist covers eyes, nose, mouth, skin, body condition, behaviour and the enclosure it came from plus the red flags that should make you walk away.
Learn how to set up a perfect temperature gradient for your reptile. Discover why hot and cool zones are vital for thermoregulation, how to measure temperatures accurately, and how to avoid common heating mistakes.
The best first reptile is the one whose needs match your space, budget and patience, not the cutest in the shop. This comparison weighs popular beginner species, leopard geckos, bearded dragons, corn snakes and others, on care difficulty, handling, cost and lifespan, so you choose with clear eyes.
A thermostat is the single most important safety device in a reptile enclosure, preventing both dangerous overheating and cold nights. This comparison explains on/off, pulse and dimming thermostats, which heaters each suits, and how to choose the right one for your setup.
Tortoises and turtles are often confused but need completely different setups. Tortoises are land grazers that need a large dry enclosure and UVB; aquatic turtles need a heavily filtered water tank with a basking platform. This guide compares housing, diet, and lifespan so you choose the right pet.
Haltap hos øgler er enten autotomi, en planlagt fluktmekanisme med et innebygd bruddplan, eller en skade, og disse krever ulik respons. Denne guiden skiller mellom dem, gir en tabell over hvilke arter som får ny hale og hvilke som ikke gjør det, forklarer hvorfor papirunderlag og riktig temperatur er viktigere enn noe
De tre første dagene med et nytt krypdyr handler om å gjøre nesten ingenting: ingen håndtering, ingen mat, ingen omorganisering. Denne guiden dekker klargjøring av innhegningen før henting, rutinen ved ankomst, hvordan normal tilvenning ser ut, og hvorfor karantene adskilt fra andre krypdyr ikke er valgfritt.
Et omplassert krypdyr ankommer med utfordringer fra det forrige miljøet sitt. Denne guiden forklarer revisjonen i rekkefølgen som betyr noe, med start på målt temperatur, så lys, hydrering, selve dyret og til slutt parasitter, og gir milepæler uke for uke slik at tilpasningen kan måles fremfor å gjettes.
Slanger har ingen pubertet, men vekst medfører virkelige og forutsigbare endringer: tregere fôring, sjeldnere hamskifte, mildere forsvarsatferd og sesongbaserte appetittsvingninger ved modenhet. Lær deg utviklingsstadiene og tegnene som ikke er en del av den normale veksten.
En nyanskaffet slange trenger en tilvenningsperiode, men det er en utfordring knyttet til dyrehold, ikke et dekompresjonsprogram som for hunder. Stabiliser terrariet, vent med håndtering, tilby det første måltidet om natten og forlat rommet, og sporing av vekt fremfor utseende.
Den virkelige risikoen med en slange i et hjem med flere generasjoner er salmonella og rømning, ikke bitt. Dette forklarer hvorfor barn under fem år og immunsupprimerte voksne er bekymringen, hvilke regler for håndvask og kjøkken som faktisk fungerer, hvordan sikre et terrarium mot både et barn og slangen, og hvilke ar
En øgleunge vokser raskere, blir raskere dehydrert og skifter ham langt oftere enn den noen gang vil gjøre senere. Hos skjeggagam endres kostholdet drastisk etter hvert som den modnes. Denne guiden dekker vekstjournalen som avdekker problemer tidlig, byttedyrsstørrelse og fôringsfrekvens, viktigheten av kalsium og UVB,
Et rom som er optimalisert for et menneske, kolliderer med et krypdyr på to spesifikke måter: Belysningen din forhindrer at dyrets natt inntreffer, og oppvarmingen, klimaanlegget og vinduet ditt destabiliserer den kjølige enden av temperaturgradienten. Dekker den sesongmessige temperaturrevisjonen, korrigering av fotop
Et arbeidsrom er rommet der temperatur, lys, luft og støy endrer seg mest i løpet av dagen, og et krypdyr kan ikke forlate det. Dette dekker hvorfor romvarme ødelegger den kjølige enden fremfor soleplassen, hvorfor sol gjennom glass gir varme uten UVB, farene ved luft og vibrasjoner på et kontor, og hvordan du håndtere
